Monday, July 27, 2020

our three year old

Tommy turned two just a few days after we landed in South Korea. We were jet lagged and living out of suitcases in army lodging. We spent the day apartment hunting, all of us in a fog, sweaty and upside down. We were most definitely in survival mode. But Tommy at 2 was the ultimate little traveler, a trooper, a bundle of positive endless energy. Bouncing and running and jumping from one new thing to the next, shouting HI! to every stranger turned instant friend we'd pass. He slid right into our new normal on the other side of the world like it was no big deal trying new foods, making new friends, leading us by the hand as we spent this year exploring new places with enthusiasm, asking "what's that? where we going? what are we going to see?" And over this year I have watched his little baby quirks, silly sayings, gestures, all turn into a full rounded personality of the sweetest little boy. 

The changes from a newborn to a one year old are so physically obvious that I think I underestimated just how much my son would grow and change from 2 to 3. But this year alone he went from diapers to fully potty trained in Mickey Mouse underwear. He traded a sleepsack and his crib for sprawled out, upside down in a twin bed. He learned to ride a balance bike, take off his own socks and shoes, pull up his pants (mostly... a little hiney is sometimes still visible). He started out the year still calling me "Bobby," milk was "guk" and bananas were "bididis." I have a list of the cutuest Tommy-isms saved on my phone so I never forget the sound of his little voice saying "chin-tow-peas" (chimpanzees). But now he can count to ten, sings along to Jesus Loves Me and says, unprompted, things like "that sounds kinda like a good idea" and "oh, that's interesting" clear as day even if they're not always in the right context. 
He spent a good chunk of being two violently resisting hair cuts but finally gave in to looking more and more like his daddy. The playground at our neighborhood, that at first required countless boosts up from dad with a nervous mom hovering right below, now sees him scrambling up and over, unassisted ordering around and encouraging littler kids to go down the slide with him. Saying his prayers at bedtime evolved from just mommy repeating the little "now I lay me down to sleep" rhyme to his sweet little heart listing off everything he wants to thank God for, including every relative plus every toy he played with and piece of food he ate that day. 
Luckily even with all the new little boy changes some things remain the same. He still loves Thomas and his train friends and reading books over and over with Mommy and Daddy on the couch.  His current favorites are the classic Winnie the Pooh stories, Frog and ToadOh the Places You'll GoDear Dragon. He still takes a solid afternoon nap (most days- I'm holding strong because we both need that rest time) and sleeps nearly 12 hours at night. Boy has always loved his food and is an adventurous eater- everything from okra to octopus, bibimbap, kimchi, bulgogi.  

The biggest change to his little world was the promotion to big brother. And even though I say "too rough," "be gentle," "don't grab," "share," more times in a day than I can count, he loves his Baby Wheel. Just as I predicted, watching their relationship grow and seeing them start to actually play together as Will becomes more mobile and sturdier and able to hang is just the best part of life! 

Tommy just loves all his people, big and fierce. His little gentle spirit is so sensitive and full of empathy. He picks up on what others around him are feeling, if you're sad he'll cry too, if another kid is being a little too intense he'll come back to us for comfort and reassurance. He also throws out spontaneous "I love yous" and "mommy you're so pretty" all day long.  And the way he runs yelling "Daddy!! You're here!" when T.J. gets home from work can brighten even the strangest and hardest days of 2020. 
Next week my three year old starts school. Just two mornings a week is all this mama's heart can handle but he is so excited and every time we walk by the school he asks if it's open and can he go?  How are we here already? Wasn't I only just holding him on my chest skin to skin in that army hospital in Washington? And now he has his own pencil box? We're entering a whole new season of life and opening up the innocent, precious world we've been living in for the past three years.  Letting in new friends, new teachers, new risks but also new ways for my darling boy to find and experience all the joy and love in the world and to share his big light in return. I'm both grieving the smoothing out of his baby fat and also cheering on each new thing he seems to just wake up one day knowing. What new wonder will we see tomorrow? Bring it on Three! 

Monday, June 8, 2020

Birthday at the Beach

All I wanted to do for my birthday was go to the beach with my boys! South Korea is a peninsula and thus surrounded on three sides by countless beaches. I don't think people outside of Korea really think of Korea as a beach-y place but so far the several beaches we've been to are stunning. There are so many beaches lining the coasts that I want to explore so we just picked one, loaded up the car with all our gear and headed west. The western coast is about an hour and a half away and you can pretty much pull off on any of the road signs pointing you to different beaches, each usually with their own designated parking and restrooms. We ventured to Anmyeondo Island and after crossing the bridge which connects it to Taen county (and the Taen National Park which is on my list to check out) we found Anmyeon beach
It's not yet beach season here in Korea, despite the warmer temperatures, but I was still surprised how empty the beach was. Though the small-ish parking lot was nearly full when we arrived the wide, expansive beach appeared nearly deserted save for a couple other families. We followed their example and set up our chairs and tent as far back from the water as we could. We slapped on some sunscreen, nursed the baby, and after a quick tutorial on sandcastles, we headed down to the surf with bucket and shovel in hand. 
The last time we were really at the beach Tommy was just a couple months older than Will is now and it was a lot of sand-eating and sandy diapers. Will was content to hang in the carrier so we managed to mostly avoid that this time around. Tommy is now a full fledged beach lover like his mama and I have a feeling, from the way he conked out on me to the sound of the waves, that Will is going to feel the same. 
We stuck to the shallow waters which were surprisingly warm and spent a couple hours digging in the sand, splashing in the water, and filling our bucket with shells. Will got to dip his toes in the ocean for the first time in his little life. It's so wild to me that the first ocean he's ever experienced is the East China Sea. I know he probably wont remember any of the years we spend in South Korea but I am still so grateful that we get to have these adventures with our boys and hope it solidifies a love of traveling, being brave, trying new things, and that it opens their eyes to all the wonders of God's creation. 
This is a part of the world I never imagined I'd visit someday let alone call home, yet no matter what ocean I'm looking at, the beach always feels familiar to me, like an old friend I haven't seen in a while. The sound of the waves, the feel of sand, the smell of the saltwater and sunscreen, are all reliably unchanging. And in a world that lately feels very heavy and the news seems like one endless gray cloud, a sunny day at the beach was exactly what I needed.
I imagine if we could read hangul we might have seen the signs and been warned about the roadwork but in the few hours we were at the beach they literally tore up the road we drove in on and turned our hour and a half trip into four!!  It was a major buzzkill but oh well, lesson learned: always check the gps return trip estimates before selecting a beach on an island with only one bridge on and off.  We made it home just in time to rinse off the sand and have birthday cake for dinner.  After that drive, it might take some convincing to get T.J. to make another trip to the beach anytime soon.  But despite that blow I am hanging on to the sweet memories made in the sunshine with my little beach babes. 

Wednesday, May 27, 2020

Dragons and tigers and chili peppers, oh my!

We set off on another little road trip during the four day weekend, this time to a little lake in the more mountainous area of Cheongyang county. It was about an hour away from where we lived, country roads surrounded on both sides by rice fields and looming green mountains. The whole way there I kept thinking about anyone who found themselves stationed in Korea before the age of GPS. How in the world did they go anywhere, find anything? And that wasn't even all that long ago! I still remember having to go on to mapquest in college and print off directions before setting off anywhere, and before that there were worn spiral bound books of road maps tucked into the back seats of the our family's station wagon. But even with a map I'd be lost in Korea because... umm... yeah I can't read hangul. While most of the road signs around us, on the interstates and in metropolitan areas, have both the hangul characters and the romantization, that is not the case once you head into more rural areas with less foreigners.

All that to say we are one hundred percent, completely and utterly dependent on our gps directions and thank goodness for technology or we would miss out on some neat places like the Cheonjangho Suspension Bridge. Our trusty gps led us blindly to a large parking lot, which was nearly empty since we were visiting on an overcast Monday and had arrived before 11am (Korea in general seems to get moving a little later in the day and stay up later at night- aka the opposite of our life right now).
The Cheongjangho Suspension Bridge crosses Cheongyang Lake and is the largest suspension bridge in Korea. A smooth easy trail lead us down to the lake, passing just the beginning of the chili peppers- the theme of the day. A quick google search once we got home informed us that the Cheongyang county is known for Cheongyang chili peppers which are like a spicier version of the traditional Korean chili peppers. Hence, chili pepper mascots, all the chili pepper photo ops, and giant chili pepper towers at the start of the bridge. Because why the heck not!
It was so nice to have the place mostly to ourselves as I've seen pictures of it looking more crowded (I think fall is particularly popular with all the changing colors in the mountains), and even though it's not all that high, the bridge was wobbly enough for my liking.

At the other end of the bridge you are greeted by a giant dragon in front of you and an equally large tiger to your left. Plus a painted recreation of both for your photo backdrops. Korea is reliable like that. They literally build things that serve no other purpose than to look cute for the 'gram.
Apparently, though, the dragon and the tiger have significance to this lake beyond looking cool in photos. A translated sign told us the following story:

"Chonjangho, a small lake below Mt. Chilgab, is known for the legend of the dragon and the tiger. A yellow dragon who was waiting a thousand years to ascend to heaven, saved a child by making a bridge over the water. A tiger, watching this, protected the mountain as a spiritual being. Climbing the mountain over the bridge, you can have luck and a healthy baby through miraculous energy from the dragon and the tiger."
We headed up another path towards a wishing rock but didn't have scrap of paper on us to add our own to the chain of wishes. Then, winding further around the lake was yet another chili pepper. 
Back up by the car park were little souvenir stands and umbrellas and dining tables outside of several little restaurants serving traditional korean foods. We had packed a picnic so we just purchased a bottled water and sat outside to have our lunch before getting back in the car. We had intentions of visiting a nearby temple but both boys promptly fell asleep the second we got back in the car. We'll have to plan another trip back down there soon to see what all we missed.

Monday, May 25, 2020

Adventuring Again: Hwaseong Fortress

Where oh where  to begin. We are all relearning how to socialize in public again. Relearning how to go places and do things and it's a bit awkward. Do we wear the masks do we not? Do we shake hands or bump elbows? Am I standing too close? Do you think they'll be open?

Now that the Army has given us the green light we are getting back to exploring Korea. While the country as a whole has been open for a little bit now (and in fact never fully locked down like they did back in the States), the Army finally lifted the restrictions for active duty soldiers and their families just in time for Memorial Day weekend. Everyone quickly scrambled to get out and go go go, enjoying our new freedom!

Thursday night we had dinner. In a restaurant! For the first time in thirteen weeks!! We walked to our favorite local Korean BBQ joint and went all out! We took our time meandering home, stopping for hot donuts and then popping in to the GS25 convenience store near our house to pick up a beer for T.J. and a soju for me. We enjoyed them al fresco on the picnic tables outside the shop, just like the locals, and it felt so dang normal!
I was a bit overwhelmed by all of the sudden possibilities for a 4 day weekend. Where should we go? Should we stay overnight, take the train, book a hotel? We decided not to go too crazy and just planned a couple of little day adventures instead.

On Friday we headed to Suwon a city about 45 minutes north of us but still south of Seoul, to explore the Hwaseong Fortress. GPS took us to a parking lot near the Haenggung or "temporary palace." Apparently this palace is where the royal family would retreat in times of war.  We didn't venture in this time and instead made our way up a steep set of stairs to the high Western Command Post. From there we had sweeping views of the city laid out before us. The Fortress is a walled structure almost 6km around surrounding the center of Suwon. Over the many years since its construction the city has grown up around the walls, both inside and outside of the gates. Because of that, the gates and walled paths are open 24/7 since businesses, restaurants, cafes, hotels and homes are all just a part of the fortress now.

We walked around the fortress passing gun towers and sentry posts, all the while keep trying to keep a certain strong-willed toddler from running too far ahead and tumbling head over foot down a hill or off some tower. We crossed over the Hwaseomun gate and carried around the wall a little further before descending the stairs at the Janganmun gate in search of lunch. We'd heard about Suwon's famous "chicken street" but were all still feeling quite full from the BBQ the night before so we settled for something a bit lighter before heading back to the car. Both boys quickly crashed on the ride home.

(entrance to the palace)

(Western Command Post)

(Hwaseomun Gate)
(Janganmun Gate)
*A few notes for families considering a visit: Parking was super easy- we got there earlier in the morning and had no problem finding a spot. We paid 10,000KRW (credit card only) for the day.  The fortress is NOT stroller friendly. Lots of stairs and uneven steps and cobblestones and steep hills. It was a work out for my husband who ended up carrying our toddler a good bit of the way (carrying was also required for previously mentioned feisty toddler's sudden urge to bolt). 
I feel like before this whole COVID mess we were just starting to find our groove. I was no longer pregnant, Will was getting a bit older and we were more comfortable going out with two kids. And then BAM! Hello 13 weeks of going no where but downstairs to our apartment's playground (thank God for that playground and our little community here), or for our weekly adventure to see what was new at the PX.  Now stepping out in to the local community or driving further than the mile to base feels exotic and slightly overwhelming, kind of how I felt when we first touched down in Korea.  But now that we've had successful first outing back in the real world, outside of our little military family bubble, I'm sure it wont take long to readjust. The running list of places to go and things to see during our time stationed here was temporarily paused but has taken off again. I'm excited to see where we go next and to share more posts and make more little videos of our adventures in Korea!